%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% %% %% %% ==================== %% %% COMPLETE LOCKPICKING %% %% ==================== %% %% %% %% Typed by %% %% --==**>>THE REFLEX<<**==-- %% %% [Member: Omnipotent, Inc.] %% %% %% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% A working knowledge of locks and their inner most secrets is a necessity for the active agent. Virtually all government agents are well versed in this sort of thing, most army intelligence officers are equally able to deal with most locks and even many private detectives could double as effective burglars if business falls off. In times past, it was standard procedure to turn CIA type agents loose after training to break into government (and maybe private?) offices on their own and bring back proof of the venture without getting caught or having the B and E noticed the next day. I cannot attest whether this sort of thing still goes on or not... The advantages or picking or other skilled methods of entry are many: less noise and hence less chance of discovery, no tell-take signs that a violation has even occurred, fewer tools are necesary than with most break and enter methods, and lastly, but not leastly, it has more class... With any of the picking methods presented here it is necessary to practice, practice, practice. Any picking takes some time and lots of skill. Like most other things in life, it is seldom accomplished as easily as presented on television. A good methods for effective practice is to obtain a lock which lends itself to dismantling and remove all but two pins (one long and one short). Follow the techniques given until you have mastered the two pin lock and then try three pins, then four, etc. Once you have this down pat, replace the two pins with mushroom pins and start over... Before picking any lcok, squirt a bit of graphite into the locks' innards to help free it from the binding effects of dirts and other contamination. ============= =PIN TUMBLER= ============= The pin tumbler lock is the most widely used lock. It offers medium to high security and is found in doors, cars, and a host of other applications. The principle of the pin tumbler is a series of tumblers resembling small pins (usually 5) held in place by other pins resting on top of them, called drivers, which are in turn, held in place by springs. The tumblers, drivers and springs are mounted in the shell of the lock and the tumblers extend down into the core of the lock. When the proper key is inserted the tumblers are raised to this shear line, or division between them and the driver pins. This shear line is located at the top of the core. When this transpires, the core may be turned freely with the key. If a key is cut too low, the pins will extend down into the core; too high and the tumblers will extend up into the shell of the lock. In either case, the core is held stationary and the lock stays locked. Pin tumblers require a high degree of tolerance in lock and key making. About .002 of an inch is required for correct funtioning. ========= =PICKING= ========= Picking locks requires two intrinsic items: A pick and a tension tool. The pick is a thin tool cut from spring steel which ends in a light upward curve, or a number of other tip shapes ranging from diamonds to balls and squares. The pick is used to raise each pin to its shear line. The most popular pick is probably the curved pick, although you should have a variety of alternitives on hand. There are many sets on the market containing anywhere from 5 to 200 picks and tension tools in some sort of carrying case. The tension tool is an "L" shaped (usually double ended) piece of spring steel. The tension tool is inserted into the core of the lock and turned slightly in the direction that the lock opens. This tension is maintained throughout the picking operation. As the pins are raised to their shear line the tension you are exerting will prevent them from falling back down into the core. Locks that use regular, smooth pins are the easiest to pick, and are the best to learn with. Modern Yale, Corbin, etc., are usually equipped with special pins to make picking a more exacting operation. It is quite essential that one learn to pick on a smooth pinned lock before attempting the challenge of an anti-pick lock. So...try and choose a cheaper, older lock to begin with. Place the ends of your tension tool into the keyway in such a fashion that it does not block your access to the pins. Most locks will take the tension tool at the bottom of the keyway best; however it makes little difference to the lock, or for that matter, to me, where you place the tool. Exert a medium tension on the tool in the direction you suspect the lock turns. Take your curved pick and insert it into the lock directly under the first pin. Now, while maintaining the tension, push the pin up into the lock. While still maintaining your tension, remove the pick. If the pin is picked the top (or driver) pin will remain up in the lock itself, freeing the shear line. The bottom pin may fall back down into the lock, but if done correctly, the top pin will wedge against the edge of the core (because you are turning it slightly with the tension tool) and remain up.